Yes, there are reasons to be cynical about Thanksgiving. But there’s also turkey …
Beyond Black Friday, there’s much to enjoy about the American holiday – think succulent smoked birds, sumptuous stuffings and perfect pumpkin pies
It’s easy to be cynical about Thanksgiving. The origin story that we’re all told – of a friendly exchange of food between the pilgrims and the Native Americans – is, at best, a whitewashed oversimplification. And then there’s Black Friday, an event that has hijacked one of our few non-commercialised holidays and used it as the impetus for a stressful, shameless, consumerist frenzy.
Besides that, Thanksgiving is meant to be a celebration of American abundance and, boy, does that feel inappropriate at the moment. It sucks to be an American right now. It’s hard to feel gratitude for a country that’s an out-of-control dumpster fire stoked by an ogre of a man who treats the global economy like a game of Monopoly and orders his steaks well done (and with ketchup).
The worst impulses of American excess have coalesced into this moment, but hopefully this too shall pass. The story of the US I was told growing up is one of inclusivity: the melting pot, made up of the huddled masses, yearning to breathe free. Even as we recognise that these stories may not always be true, we have to keep telling them. They set standards for us to live up to.
Every year when I was a kid, my mom used to make a “Thanksgiving tree”. It was fashioned out of brown construction paper and taped to the window, and we’d all add little green leaves inscribed with something we were thankful for. Even if Thanksgiving is problematic, it’s nice to have a day set aside as a reminder to ask ourselves this. And it’s a good excuse to indulge in some seriously comforting comfort food.
Accept no substitutes: there must be turkey. I recommend cooking the crown and the legs separately – the latter confited in butter with herbs, and the former simply roasted to an internal temperature of 65C (149F). But if you have time, a barbecue, and the fortitude to cook outside, you should try smoked turkey, which I adore. Neil Rankin has an excellent, straightforward method for this (pictured top). Any leftovers would be perfect in Jacob Kenedy’s rich Louisiana gumbo. That said, noodle soup is also a must with leftover turkey, and Uyen Luu has you covered for that with six pho recipes.
Although turkey is non-negotiable, the sides are just as important. First of all: gravy. I’m not opposed to granules, but you can’t beat homemade. I love it made with a little cider, as in Anna Jones’s roast vegetable gravy. Mashed potatoes should be light, fluffy, smooth and simple, but a touch of soured cream, à la Ren Behan’s version, is always a good idea. Stuffing is mainly a vehicle for sausage meat, and must be cooked separately; I love Nigel Slater’s idea to include a little sauerkraut in the mix.
For balance, you’ll need veg. And fruit – cranberries, that is. There’s nothing wrong with shop-bought cranberry sauce, and Yotam Ottolenghi’s idea to spike the bird with pink peppercorns sounds delightful. Nothing is more Thanksgivingy than sweet-potato casserole, but if you aren’t into the concept of consuming marshmallows with gravy, a similarly sweet side would be David Everitt-Matthias’s roast pumpkin with maple, almonds, and sage. Rachel Roddy’s green beans cooked in soured cream and breadcrumbs, is a less stodgy iteration of the green bean casserole.
Finally, there must also be both pumpkin and pecan pies. Textbook versions are always welcome, but they can be a bit meh, so I like to change things up a little. Pumpkin makes a great cheesecake, such as Dan Lepard’s pumpkin labneh number, or why not give Helen Goh’s version with maple pecan brittle a go. And if you want to keep things classic, you can’t go wrong with Felicity Cloake’s take. For pecan pie, I’m intrigued by Ruby Tandoh’s inclusion of rosemary, or Liam Charles’s luscious-looking recipe with juicy pears. Can’t be bothered to make two pies? Have the best of both worlds with Meera Sodha’s clever vegan pumpkin-pecan pie.
By the way, Thanksgiving food isn’t just for Thanksgiving. As far as I’m concerned, recipes such as these can – and should – be enjoyed on regular rotation until daylight savings kick in again. Whatever you need to get you through …
My week in food
Soft spot | We are living in a golden age of soft drinks. My favourites at the moment are L’Antidote, a sparkling gamay juice infused with herbs for a vermouth-like flavour; Sportzot, a non-alcoholic Belgian ale with a fruity twang and lush, champagne-like carbonation; and Kinnie, the national beverage of Malta and the world’s finest soft drink. It tastes like a cross between cola and Campari, with a bitter finish from extracts of wormwood and chinotto orange.
Ramen weather | As the temperature edges towards zero, all I want is ramen. I love Koba-Ko in Birmingham; Everyday People in Nottingham; Ippudo, Moto and Ramo in London; and Matsudai in Cardiff. Matsudai delivers its ramen kits nationwide, and they’re among the best bowls in the country.
Cookbook comforts | Carrying on with the Thanksgiving theme, I’m very much looking forward to making the pumpkin, pecan and brown butter blondies from Yasmin Khan’s gorgeous new book, Sabzi. I’ve also got at least a dozen recipes dog-eared in Maunika Gowardhan’s latest masterwork, Curry. And if you’re looking for a really unique recipe book for an excellent cause, check out Recipes of Life, made by and for Giants, a men’s mental-health group organised by the migrant support charity Praxis.
Look sharp | The fact that so many citrus fruits are in peak season when the days are dreariest feels like divine intervention. The Wasabi Company has an incredible selection, including fresh yuzu, kabosu, shikuwasa and meyer lemons. Natoora, meanwhile, supplies Ocado with fresh bergamots and finger limes. Wherever you shop, all manner of lemons, limes, satsumas, clementines, grapefruits, pomelos and tangerines are tip-top at this time of year.
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